A groom in an ivory sherwani and turban beside his bride in deep red and gold, under a floral arch

Khaaslamhe

Two names. One story.

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Our honeymoon

Areeba and Saad

Baku, Gabala & Sheki

April 20268 nights

After the walima, eight nights that were only ours.

The Flame Towers lit red at dusk above Baku bay, their reflections in the Caspian

The two of us

Saad planned it all in secret and told Areeba at the walima, between the photos and the biryani. Eight nights later we came home married in a way the wedding had only promised. These are the places that held us first.

Where love took us

Five places, one story

Three nights in Baku by the sea, a day in the desert, then the mountains of the north. Tap a place to go to its chapter.

  1. IcherisheherDays 1–2
  2. The BoulevardDay 2
  3. GobustanDay 3
  4. GabalaDays 4–6
  5. ShekiDays 7–8

See the whole way in Maps

Our chapters

  1. Chapter One

    Icherisheher

    Days 1–2The old city, Baku

    Lost inside the walls, on purpose

    Our first home as husband and wife was a little room inside the old city walls. Every morning started with a wrong turn down a stone street, and every wrong turn ended somewhere lovely.

    She bought a scarf. He carried it.

    Open in Maps: Icherisheher

  2. Chapter Two

    The Boulevard

    Day 2Baku, by the Caspian

    The evening the towers caught fire

    A long walk by the sea as the sun went down, tea in small pear-shaped glasses, and then the three towers on the hill lit up like flames. We stayed until they had done it twice.

    Open in Maps: The Boulevard

  3. Chapter Three

    Gobustan

    Day 3The desert, south of Baku

    The quietest place we have ever been

    Out over the desert to grey hills of mud that bubble softly, and rocks carved by people who loved and danced here thousands of years ago. We sat on a warm stone and did not say much at all.

    Saad's shoes did not survive. We did.

    Open in Maps: Gobustan

  4. Chapter Four

    Gabala

    Days 4–6Nohur lake

    Autumn in the mountains

    Forest, apples and cold clean air. A boat on Nohur lake in the morning mist, and dinners of trout and pomegranate in a garden with a fire, wrapped in one shawl between the two of us.

    We counted eleven shades of orange.

    Open in Maps: Gabala

  5. Chapter Five

    Sheki

    Days 7–8The Khan's palace

    A palace made of coloured light

    Every window in the Khan's summer palace is thousands of pieces of glass fitted without a single nail. We stood inside while the sun came through and painted us both in red and blue and gold.

    Open in Maps: Sheki

In numbers

Eight nights of us

  • 8nights, just the two of us
  • 5places that held us
  • 41glasses of tea
  • 1carpet we did not mean to buy

Memories

The moments in between

Swipe for more

We did buy a carpet
Sunset on the Caspian
The oldest people we met
Our street
Up the cable car
The Khan's garden